At the Helm: Buying our first sailboat.

Steps we followed for purchasing a used sailboat: Find, Offer, Survey, Sea Trial, and Closing

1. Finding the Right Boat

The first thing you have to do is find a boat that fits your mission. An entire article could be written on this topic alone. So just to keep this short, I'll say you need to spend a good bit of time deciding what you want to do with your boat. For us we spent about a year in Florida after selling our previous boat on Lake Erie before deciding that a monohull sailboat is the direction we wanted to go.

Once that decision was made, we further had to make decisions about what we want on a sailboat. There is an overwhelming amount of information to consider when trying to determine what we wanted in a sailboat. Cruiser... Racer... Bluewater... what do all these mean and what are the features of each of the sailboat types. There are many articles and videos out there where you can research the details for each. Just try not to get overwhelmed, and focus on the type of sailing you want to do and how the different sailboat types align with your goals.

One of the best ways I found to start researching is with Yachtworld and Boat Trader. These are the largest listing websites providing good capabilities for trying several different filters. When you find a boat that interests you, head to the Sailboat Data website for detailed specs. Then a simple Google search, Youtube search, or AI chatbot can produce a lot of good general information.

Just to close out this section with a couple words of caution...

• Don't fall in love with the first boat you find
• Try to make a list of no-go items to look at before making an offer and paying for a survey
• A lot of sailboats do not have an engine hour meter, so always consider engine hours as an estimate

Some items are obvious and can be easily checked on your initial viewing to boat:

• Standing rigging that shows a lot of rust is generally aged out or not been cared for
• Check for dull sounding (water intrusion) areas around upper deck fittings such as stantions or stays/shrouds
• Check the enging oil dipstick for evidence of water/coolant contamination
• Check the enging coolant for evidence of engine oil contamination
• Check structural fiberglass areas around the engine mounts for signs of cracking

If looking at a boat with a bolt on keel:

• Check the keel bolts in the bilge area for signs of excessive corrosion
• Check the bilge area around the keel mounting bolts for signs of excessive cracking
• If the boat is out of the water, check the keel for signs of delamination or separation from hull

2. The Offer Process

Most used-boat transactions begin with a written offer contingent on a satisfactory survey and sea trial. Making the offer before the survey is standard. It locks in the price and gives you exclusive access to inspect the boat thoroughly. Walking away after a bad survey is common and expected when contingencies are properly written.

In practice this means:

• You submit an offer (often through a broker) that includes a purchase price, a deposit (typically 10%), and clear contingencies.
• The offer should state that the deal is subject to a haul-out and survey by a marine surveyor of your choosing, a sea trial, and review of all documentation.
• Negotiate the price based on comparable sales, the boat’s age, condition, equipment list, and known issues visible from a preliminary inspection or listing photos. Do not assume the asking price is firm.
• Once the seller accepts, the deposit goes into escrow (usually held by the broker or an escrow service). At this stage you have not yet committed to buying; you have only secured the right to inspect.

3. The Pre-Purchase Survey

This is the most important technical step. Hire an independent, accredited marine surveyor (look for SAMS or NAMS credentials). Budget for a haul-out so the bottom, running gear, and rudder can be inspected. On older production sailboats, pay particular attention to deck-core integrity around fittings, chainplate corrosion, and the condition of the shaft seal and cutlass bearing. The survey report becomes your primary negotiating tool: legitimate deficiencies can justify a price reduction, seller-paid repairs, or walking away.

The survey will typically:

• Examine the hull (above and below the waterline), deck, core materials, chainplates, through-hulls, seacocks, and structural members.
• Inspect the engine, transmission, electrical system, plumbing, rigging (standing and running), sails, and safety gear.
• Perform a moisture-meter survey and, when appropriate, percussion testing or infrared imaging for soft spots and osmosis.
• Provide a written report with findings ranked by severity, estimated repair costs, and an overall opinion of the vessel’s condition and value.

4. The Sea Trial

A sea trial is not a joyride. It is a controlled test of the boat under power and, if applicable, under sail. Ideally it occurs after the survey so the surveyor can be present or at least aware of findings. The seller is usually responsible for hiring a captain to conduct the sea trial. Bring a knowledgeable friend or your surveyor if possible. Take notes and photos. If significant problems appear, you still have the right to renegotiate or cancel under the contingency terms.

Key items to evaluate:

• Engine start-up, idle quality, throttle response, temperature, oil pressure, and charging output under load.
• Steering feel, rudder response, and any unusual vibration or noise from the shaft or propeller.
• Performance under sail: pointing ability, sail shape, winch function, and how the boat handles in different points of sail.
• Systems that only reveal themselves underway: bilge pumps, navigation electronics, autopilot, refrigeration, and electrical loads.
• Any water intrusion, unusual smells, or mechanical oddities that appear only when the boat is moving.

Closing

Once the survey and sea trial are satisfactory (or after any negotiated adjustments), the remaining steps are largely administrative. After closing, schedule any immediate maintenance the survey identified and consider a post-purchase haul-out if critical items were deferred. Update the vessel name with the Coast Guard or state authorities if you plan to rename her, following the traditional steps if that matters to you.

Closing steps usually involve:

• Final walk-through to confirm the inventory matches the accepted offer and that agreed-upon repairs or credits have been completed.
• Review of title, bill of sale, current registration or documentation, and any liens. A title search is wise on older boats.
• Payment of the balance (wire transfer is common), release of the deposit from escrow, and transfer of ownership documents.
• Arrangement for insurance (required by most lenders and smart even if paying cash) and, if needed, transport or delivery.
• Handover of keys, manuals, spare parts, and any access codes or passwords for electronics.

Final Thoughts

The sequence—contingent offer, thorough survey, meaningful sea trial, then closing—exists because boats hide problems. Treat each stage as a filter rather than a formality. A good surveyor and a clear contract protect you far more than optimism. When the process is followed carefully, you step aboard knowing what you bought and what still needs attention, which is the best possible start to ownership.

Disclaimer: The process outlined above comes from our own personal experience, and is not meant to be advice. We are definitely not licensed brokers or experts in this field, and you should not take it as such. As with anything you read on the internet, you should do enough of your own research to make your own informed decisions on how you will proceed with your boat buying experience.